Sunday, September 30, 2007

For Shame!

I have been so remiss in my blogging! Big entry to come with pictures later this afternoon -- promise!

A
I lied. I didn't do it and there is too much to write to start now.
Here's a teaser of stories to come:
  • Allison attends the most excruciatingly boring gemmology class ever
  • The cheeseburger that was not
  • 100 year-old Korean wine and party at Nond's palace
  • Alumni cocktails: a story of hope and despair
  • The story of the work group that did not work
  • Heaven in a macaroon and the tea that was a rose
  • The girl who didn't buy a train ticket
  • Graduation with Chantal Thomass and the Eiffel Tower
  • Tuesday, Wednesday?
  • Career conundrums
  • C'est vendredi! and my first graduate school grade
  • Sleep, sleep and more sleep
  • A trip to les puces in Paris
  • The party and the missed train
Holy moly, that might take me a while. I'll do it tomorrow -- double promise. I'll also mail those postcards from Labor Day . . . what's wrong with me?! I have to go get my medical visit over with tomorrow morning at 9:00 a.m. in Paris. Yuck. I bet you five million dollars that a French version of Ointment Man sits down next to me -- or this guy: Girl, Sugar Pie, mwah, mwah.

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Pourrais-j'avoir un petit café à emporter?

September 10 - 16

à emporter: to take away/to go
I learned this one after talking around it for about 5 minutes this morning during my coffee order. I now have my order down pat: un petit café crème à emporter, s.v.p.

sur place: to stay
This was also a part of my bakery language lesson.

écrémé: skim
Thank goodness this means what I thought it did. I only looked it up today and I was a little worried I had been downing whole milk for two weeks.

Pourrais-je?: May I?
I never realized how much I used this phrase until I didn't quite know how to say it correctly.

Saturday, September 15, 2007

Everyday French Class

It's Saturday and I'm not afraid to let you know that I stayed in tonight with my new friend, Stanley the $6 bonsai tree. I was supposed to take part in round 2 of this weekend's Paris nightlife: the danceclub. After another really late Friday night out and a splitting afternoon headache -- due to my having had no water in about 48 hours and, I'll admit, the cup of Bartles & James-esque "wine" that I was half-forced to drink last night -- I decided to take a little time to pull myself together. Better to be fun every time you go out than to go out every time just to appear fun, right?

Big news today is that I got a cell phone! Yay. Looks like I'm going to have to learn to text message a little faster because buying minutes here is très cher. Although, the salesman didn't quite agree with me when I exclaimed that in the store. "C'est le prix (that's the price)," he said. I'm not sure what kind of argument c'est le prix is supposed to be. It may be the price, but it's still expensive. Anyway, I posted the number on the right so you'd have it in case you need it. Receiving calls is free so don't worry that you're putting me in the poor house minute by minute. I guess that won't exactly be so cheap for anyone of you either . . . so Skype's probably the best unless it's an emergency -- like someone is in the hospital or you can't decide which shoes to wear with your new dress.

Last night I went to a party in a real live Parisian apartment with real live Parisian people. I did a great job of practising my French in the beginning with an artist lady and a guy, who seems to have a complicated job because it took him about 3 minutes to explain it. Unfortunately, I didn't exactly understand what he was saying. Oops. I also think that the artist lady invited me to another party or concert soon. I'm going to have to follow up with the girl who threw the party to figure that one out. Maybe next weekend I will be wearing all black and philosophizing avec musicians and visionaries.

Today was filled with cell phone getting and a brief language lesson at Show Gourmand. I ordered my café au lait, which I've gathered is really called a café crème. I wanted it to go, and I tried to express that fact to the lady making the coffee. So I asked if I could have it "pour aller?" (my literal translation of "to go" -- thanks a lot google). From her look, I knew I wasn't even close. Then, a second lady says something to the first about language or lesson or, really, I have no idea. I then tried my own version of "paper cup." The first lady held up a napkin.

When they realized that I wasn't asking for a napkin, it prompted them to start guessing about my nationality. Vous êtes allemande (German), espagnole (Spanish)? Ah! No, "Je suis américaine." Now, where was I? I was totally thrown off course. Okay, let's try "I want to take it outside." "Oh, yes, you can take it outside." I looked to where she pointed and saw tables on the sidewalk behind me. Not quite there. "I want to take it outside and go away." I accompanied this statement with little walking fingers. "Oh, à emporter!" "Oui! À emporter!" At this exclamation, the two ladies looked very proud, as if they'd manage to drag me safely out of a terrible language swamp. Coffee went from porcelain to paper cup.

I've quickly come to realize how truly amazing communication, even on the most basic level, is. The French people have been so wonderful about teaching me how to parler. Rarely does anyone speak English to me and they are very patient in trying to understand what I'm attempting to say. And, each time I have a eureka! moment with someone, he or she seems genuinely pleased that I've learned to speak a little better.

Even people at the grocery store are helpful. For example, a man took it upon himself to explain to me that I didn't need to weigh a cucumber because cucumbers are sold by the piece. Thank goodness because there was not a picture of a cucumber anywhere on the scale, and I would have stood there for a long time trying to figure out what to do.

All of this helpfulness makes it easier to get along slowly but surely. I've dicovered that I have a million other cultural things to learn about my classmates as well. Swiss people get three kisses, while just about everyone else gets two. Greeks believe that if you drink the last of a botte of wine that you will have a good wedding. Asians don't usually appreciate you diving into personal questions after 5 minutes or, in some cases, ever. In China, it seems that chocolate pudding doesn't exist because my friend from Shanghai bought some thinking it was yogurt. When he discovered it wasn't, he put it on a salad assuming it was "salad sauce." The French take the word "hamburger" literally and sometimes make hamburgers out of ham. That was a rather unpleasant discovery. I also learned that I've been holding my chopsticks wrong for years and that in Japan you can hold your rice bowl off of the table, but in Korea people consider it rude.

In return, I've tried to be a good ambassador for the South. About half of the class understands "y'all" now and I've promised them fried food, chess pie, tea punch and mint juleps before the year is up. I've also fielded some English language etiquette questions, and I talk very slowly. Just my way of giving back.

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Une Baguette, s.v.p.

I've decided to take a little break from $'s and #'s, but I don't have much to report. Today, believe it or not, was the first day I bought a baguette. I went to the bakery and said, "Une baguette, s'il vous plait," and I received a nice warm baguette. Warm! Honestly, after hundreds of Harris Teeter baguettes, I didn't really know that they could come all soft and warm. Not that I'm knocking Harris Teeter; it has it's own specialties.

Yesterday, some of us tried the Japanese restaurant in town. Bizarre, I know. We barely have enough here to live a normal life, but we've got sushi. Go figure. It was pretty good, but I was feeling a bit not so happy. I'd forgotten how hard it was to really move away from everything and start something new. It's easy to feel like everyone else is making friends and that you're on the outside. I think we're all feeling a like a haphazard best friends crew because each of us has gone from not even knowing the others existed to spending at least 8 hours of intense class together every day, all in just 2 weeks.

After class today, though, I think I'm getting over my short blue period. One of the girls in class is throwing a party tomorrow at her apartment in Paris, which should be fun. Rest assured that you will not be reading about how I spent another night in the City of Lights trying in vain to get home. Remember, leçon appris.

Okay, back to work!

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Any Place Is Paradise Until There Are No Taxis

Finally a break! We got out of classes today at 4:15 and don’t have another until 1:00 tomorrow. Of course, that means class until 7:45, but it’s wine class so evening is as good a time as any I guess. I am over the exhaustion of last Thursday, but I decided to really delve into the pit of fatigue despair before sleeping it all away like a bad dream.

On Friday night, I met a group of classmates for dinner in Paris and then joined a few of them at a discothèque called Showcase, which is under the Pont Alexandre III. I should have known better, but I’m really trying my best to socialize, so a-clubbing we shall go! Despite the impressive location on the Seine, the club crowd was rather unimpressive in the way of fun. The drinks were even more unimpressive in the way of actual liquor, which would have helped me ignore the crowd’s general age of 23.

Anyway, I had a fun time talking to the people from school and the club itself was pretty cool. I really did feel like I was under the bridge, and you can see the Seine from huge openings in the side of the building. I think the club, however, thinks it’s way more awesome than it really is.

When I walked up to the bouncer (after waiting in line – and you know how much I hate that!), I said “Bonsoir!” I got a “bonsoir” back and then a “well, what the hell do you want?” look. Fortunately, my classmate Gabby stepped in and said that we were 6 people. I’m sorry, since when do we not ask questions when we’d like information? Are French night clubbers all telepathic?

We were then told to stand in a line. We were then scrutinized. A lady was called. She looked us up and down. “Are they okay in the face?” She said “oui,” but she wasn’t very convincing. Gabby said it was because our friend Nond’s friend, Pun, had “that pirate thing on his head,” but I thought Pun looked better than 75% of the guys in the club. Whatever. We were a good looking group.

Midnight’s approach prompted the “how are we going to get home?” discussion. This discussion is boring and never ends on a good note, unless you are with Ainsley and she comes up with brilliant plans like staying in nearby hotels. The last train back to Cergy leaves Paris at 12:45 a.m. The next train leaves at 5:35 a.m. Ergo, there is a 5-hour window of this trainless lassitude that requires you stay in Paris and would be wonderfully romantic on an exceptional first date, but is just problematic when you are out just for the sake of being out. But, I speak from experience. I was not so wise on Friday.

Train? No train? Train? Bus? No, not bus. Train? No, wait, taxi! Yes! The idea hatched from a New Yorker in the group, and I obviously thought it was the best option. In New York on any given night, apart from New Year’s Eve and very rainy, snowy or freezing nights, one simply has to step outside and lift an arm to hail a taxi. Lift arm. Taxi appears. Of course, it’s not always that easy. Sometimes the process requires waving, whistling, yelling, exhibiting some leg, yelling at other taxi hailers, fighting off perceived taxi stealers and everything short of (yet sometimes including) throwing yourself in front of the taxi.

My point is this: in New York there are taxis that you can hail at any time at any place. These taxis, once hailed, will take you home.

Although I have several extraordinary taxi-hailing memories that include images of my friend Liz leaping across icy streets in heels, me banging a metal bowl against a lamp post on the FDR and the like, I don’t think it ever took me more than 40 minutes to get a cab. Even in Greenwich Village on Saturday at 2:00 in the morning in the rain.

So, yes, we will take a taxi. Around 2:00 a.m., a group of us decided that we wanted to go home. Time to get the taxi! I was aware that Paris does not allow the free-for-all taxi hailing of which New York is so fond, but I also knew that taxi stands were prevalent on the Champs-Elysees. We walked to a taxi stand and waited. And we waited. And waited. In 35 minutes, I think we saw one taxi stop. There were millions of taxis. Taxis, taxis, everywhere, but not a one to stop! It appeared that every night owl and dog in Paris had hailed a taxi from some other magical “Stop Here!” taxi stand.

We walked to another stand. Then we hobbled to another. One of the, how shall I say, “less together” members of the group kept walking to and fro across the street. I swear, I thought I was going to be scraping her off of the Champs-Elysees before dawn. Around 3:45, we decided to call it quits, stop for pizza, and wait for the 5:35 train.

Not cool. This is not my scene. I’m not a “let’s watch the sunrise type of person.” No one looks good after midnight, much less after 5:00 a.m. And I, for one, am not so pleasant for lack of sleep leads to crankiness. Because of this fact, I made the smart decision to talk less and less as the early morning marched on.

Pizza came and went and our little troop wandered back out into the streets. Finally, by some miracle, the New Yorker (or the other New Yorker, since I can now count myself as at least New Yorkie), found a taxi hot spot and hailed one down. By this time, 4:55, I had declared Paris “every man for himself” land so I Frogger-ed it across the street and jumped in . . . to blaring Elvis. Seriously, I entered a tiny mobile Las Vegas. At 5:00 in the morning. It took “Suspicious Eyes,” “You’re the Devil in Disguise,” “A Little Less Conversation,” a few other hits I don’t remember and a Shakira song to get us home. I’m still singing “Whenever, Wherever” in my head.

Having flown into bed at about 5:35, I was fairly worthless until Sunday. Since France closes on Sunday, I had to amuse myself with about 6 hours of Financial Accounting homework. After one class, I realized that Ainsley gave me the best business school advice yet when she told me to stay on top of the reading and do the homework. I think I might be a little numbers nerd at heart because I actually like the class. Oh, how I could have managed lemonade stands, LifeSavers, Inc., and Dixie Darlings with such financial wizardry, if only I had taken this class earlier! Come the mid-term next week, however, I might not be so happy about it.

I also started gemmology classes, which I was really excited about on Monday morning. Not so much anymore. We’ve had two classes and I’m still not entirely sure what a) the purpose of the class is and b) what information I am supposed to retain. I don’t take kindly to people who discount emeralds as “crap” and praise moonstone, so perhaps the first teacher just turned me off a bit. I think you are allowed to like any type of stone no matter what. Our teacher today was better, but she talked mostly about the diamond industry – flashback to 47th Street. For some reason, a lot of people in the class had very specific questions about insuring gemstones. Yawn. The teacher is also an expert on antique jewelry so I think Thursday’s lesson will be more interesting. Regardless, I’m thinking about asking her to talk to me about the jewelry trade industry in Paris because I don’t know much about it.

Other than attending class, I have agreed to help plan our January field trip to NYC. Dorrian’s here we come! Just kidding, but I really hope I didn’t need to clarify that I was joking. My French/Luxembourgish friend is teaching me more French in exchange for Southern dialect tidbits. So far, I have given her “y’all,” “conniption fit,” and “cattywhompus.” Actually, I am slowly converting the entire class into y’all-users. Whenever I say “y’all,” no one understands what I am saying. Rather than omit such a phenomenal word from my vocabulary, I decided to enlighten my international class. Feel free to send me other Southern words when they come to you. I don’t want to run out before I become fluent in French.

Thinking about New York, yesterday was the first day I really and truly missed it since June. Maybe it was a reminder of today, but I wanted nothing more than to be in the city running around and doing all of the things I used to do. So if you are in New York today, tell it that you love it (even if you don’t feel like it) because one day you might be gone and you’ll regret not appreciating all of the everyday wonderfulness it offers – like taxis.

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Ridicule Versatile-ness

September 3 - 9

ridicule: ridiculous
It is ridicule that the school failed to mention that it locks all of the doors at 6:00 p.m. and neglected to explain to any of us how to get out (thank goodness for the cleaning lady).

versatile: fickle
My visa card is very versatile, for sometimes it works at the bank and Auchan and sometimes it doesn't.

mal interprêter: to misinterpret
This would be the reason for my ending up with a cheese-only, and not a ham and cheese sandwich today at lunch.

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Je Suis Épuisée (I Am Exhausted)

Believe it or not, I already don't have much time to write. I just got home from school (it's going on 9:00 p.m.). I have to "cook" dinner in the next 10 minutes to prevent myself from falling asleep before eating. "Cooking" tonight will entail spreading peanut butter and jelly on bread.

Classes are going well. The days have been long -- 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. or later. So far they have been very interesting lectures and I've already learned a lot about the industry. Tonight I was working with 2 others on a Rolex project. It seems that I am the only girl in the class who has an interest in watches. Oh well, more watch studies for me!

Other than that I have been sleeping because I'm just not used to having to pay attention for so many hours in a row after relaxing all summer. It's also sort of exhausting making new friends and trying to speak French whenever possible.

Everyone in my class still seems very nice. I have tried to get to know as many people as possible and I was happy to be in a work group tonight with two guys I hadn't talked to very much. This weekend I am going with a group of girls to the Paris equivalent of Woodbury Commons. I'm sure I will have something to report when I return. Apparently, they have very strict rules in France about discount stores -- when they can sell things, minimum discounts and such.

Well, time to be the PB&J gourmand. Until next time ponder this question: why do French vending machines offer peanut M&Ms, while plain M&Ms are no where to be found?

Tuesday, September 4, 2007

"Ah, you mean you can't very well take less."

As the March Hare said, you really can't take less than nothing. After ten days research, I have concluded that you can also not take less of a serving of French coffee, which is practically nothing itself.

I thought that France was the country of café. Right? When we see artsy black and white photographs of Paris, one out of three depicts a couple philosophizing over café au laits. Steam rising out of porcelain cups, the coffee almost always steals the show.

"Where is this coffee?" I ask. It is not in my shop downstairs. It is not in the school cafeteria. It is not really in Show Gourmand, and it could not possibly be in the automatic coffee machines that sit silently around campus.

In fact, the "coffee" I have received here is unlike any coffee I know. I'm beginning to doubt it even is coffee. It comes in little round packets that resemble tea bags. It goes into cups one eighth the size of a small New York coffee. Ergo, as I am sure you can infer, it comes in servings that are one eighth the size of New York servings.

"Silly girl, it must be espresso!" you exclaim. I thought of that. And it's not. This substance masquarading as coffee provides no relief from the grogginess of morning. It offers no espresso jolt. It tastes like syrup without sugar (if you can even imagine) and it rarely, if ever, comes with the option of milk.

Honestly, I wonder why anyone would drink it. France's neighbor, Italy, has mastered the coffee art. Why did they not share? And if they tried to share, why did France refuse the gift? Is it a question of national pride?

I've titled this column "Ravens and Writing Desks" after the Mad Hatter's riddle. For like his question and others without answers, the puzzles French culture presents are sometimes bewildering. Why is a raven like a writing desk? Why do the French insist on giving me bad coffee? The answer to both remains the same: I don't know.

Just because I don't know, however, doesn't mean that I didn't solve the problem. I'm in business school. I focus on identifying and solving problems. So, I pinpointed the problem: lack of acceptable coffee. Then I bought a coffee maker and some Lavazza coffee. It, too, comes in little teacoffee bags, but it's got to be better than the alien darkness that pervades the area.

Hopefully, I have ended this mad coffee party. No more miniture cups. No more pretending that I can handle this un-coffee. Tomorrow morning will be different. I hope. I've never really made coffee before.

Sunday, September 2, 2007

Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler

Ainsley arrived on Saturday morning and brought even more adventure to Cergy Le Haut. That morning, we explored the pâtisserie, Show Gourmand, which I think I shall adopt as my French Georgia's. Even though it's without Caesar and Danny, the ladies who work there are very nice and the coffee is fine. Don't get me wrong; nothing at Show Gourmand will compare to a Caesar cappuccino on a crisp Fall morning, but I think it'll do for now.

I took Ainsley on a tour of town and was disappointed to discover that what I thought was the Garage du Pain is actually La Grange à Pain. Wait, I just looked this up and it seems to translate as "Barn to Bread" or "Barn of Bread." Disappointment has vanished. I think we can all agree that Bread Barn is even better than Bread Garage.

After a quick nap, we decided to explore the outskirts of town. We opted for a faraway green space that, on the map, appeared to be a park in Cergy St. Christophe. We walked for about 30 minutes and came upon said "park." Now, perhaps this is what the architects envisioned this park to be:


But really, it's a horrible place that looks more like this in the harsh daylight:

Apparently, the park was built in 1975 and was supposed to channel the grandeur of Paris and serve as a replica of the historic axis of Paris, the Louvre and the Grande Arche. I had to translate that explanation so take it with a grain of salt.

The park, L'Axe Majeur, does overlook the Oise river and onto Paris, but yikes, what a vast space of grodiness! That's right, I'm using the word "grody" here. The area of town that surrounds the park is dirty and run down and the park itself is empty and has no green, except for some sort of communal farming project. Seriously, I felt like I was walking through the aftermath of some fallen communist regime. If we had stayed for 5 more minutes, we probably would have seen tanks rolling through with soldiers handing out stale bread and Hershey bars.

After vowing to never visit this place again, Ains and I decided to head back home using a different route because why ever would you want to actually know where you are going? An hour later and we're in a tiny village called Vauréal with no hope of ever getting out.

Of the transportation situation in Vauréal, Wikipedia writes, "Vauréal is served by no station of the Paris Métro, RER, or suburban rail network. The closest station to Vauréal is Cergy - Le Haut station on Paris RER line A and on the Transilien Paris - Saint-Lazare suburban rail line." A quick look at the bus schedule also told us that no busses would be serving Vauréal until September 9th. I guess the one bus driver was on holiday?

Luckily, Ainsley had the good sense to ask two different people for directions. Unfortunately, they both agreed that walking back to Cergy Le Haut was the only option. Directions went something like this:
La-bas, c'est un rond-point. Allez à gauche et montrez. Puis, y'a un autre rond-point et allez à droite.
Over there is a roundabout. Go left and climb. Then there is another roundabout and go right.
Each time the word "rond-point" was spoken it was accompanied by a swirling of the finger so that it seemed that Ainsley and I were going to have to enter some human pinball machine.

Just as we reached the first rond-point, which also happened to be the place at which we took our wrong turn and walked past the HUGE MAP, a taxi emerged from the hilltop. I was so tired. I thought it might be a mirage. It was all I could do to say feebly, "Ains, taxi." Fortunately, Ains spring into action and flagged him down. Saved by the taxi! It was still a 15-minute drive back home. Au revoir, Vauréal.

Quick showers and a sip of Coke Light Sango (yuck) and we were off to Paris's Butte aux Cailles quarter for dinner at Les Ouiseaux de Passage. Once in the city, we caught a taxi and I tried to give the address, "Rue Barrault et Passage Barrault" It was useless, however, because by this time I had completely lost my voice due to the cold.

Ainsley stepped in and said quite clearly, "Rue Barrault." Still, no look of recognition on the taxi driver's face. "Barrault!" I wrote it down and showed it to him. "Oh, Rue Barrault! It's Barrault, pas Barrault." Really, this is what I heard, and the dirver was adamant about the whole thing. I'm thinking to myself, "I'm just . . . not . . . getting it. How is what the driver said any different than what Ainsley said?"

Regardless, we got to 7 Rue Barrault to find Les Oiseaux de Passage closed. Oops. Oh well, so we wandered up the cobblestoned street and happened upon a fantastic Italian restaurant called Les Cailloux. There, Ainsley had the most brilliant idea. "Let's not catch the 12:00 train," she offered, "Let's just spend the night in Paris at that hotel we passed! What do you have in your bag?" Between the two of us, we had enough make-up and toiletries to make ourselves look halfway decent the next day.

So after a wonderful dinner, we booked a chambre at the 2-star TimHotel. I guess roof and walls gets you at least one star. Still, it was just magnifique for what we needed. We checked the room to make sure it was acceptable and headed back out for some cocktails at La Folie En Tête bar. Not five minutes later, we had made 3 new French friends and were having a grand time.

This morning, we awoke and went out to explore Paris for a bit. We had a long long breakfast and then walked around a few neighborhoods. After a visit to the Fragonard Perfume Museum, which appeared to be the only thing open on Sunday, we headed back to Cergy Le Haut for a rest.

Oh, I'm tired just reading this! Must get dinner and get to bed so I'll be rested for the first day of classes tomorrow. Bonne nuit!

Bon Gré Mal Gré at the Rond-point

August 25 - September 2

inderdit(e): forbidden
Thank goodness I looked this up because practically everything is interdit here.

bon gré mal gré: willy nilly
I couldn't go too long without knowing that one. I think it literally translates as good taste bad taste or to a liking not to a liking.

J'ai mal à la gorge: my throat hurts
Merci Mlle. Pharmacienne. She was very good about making the universal signs for sinus pain and sneezing as well. Even "achoo" sounds better in French.

un rond-point: roundabout